Apples to Oranges

It is no surprise to those who enjoy and follow industry sales and trends that Pinot Noir is quite popular with Americans these days. From wine lists to festivals Pinot Noir has seen quite a surge in sales and exposure. So, it is also no surprise that we’re seeing a multitude of “conversations” on the grape. As with any popularity comes controversy, and Pinot Noir is not immune to the drama of being a sought after darling. The particular controversy I speak of is the never ending battle of California versus Oregon. And to the futile feud I say: stop the madness!

Now don’t get me wrong, a little friendly competition in the world of sales (and everything else!) is all well and good. But the battle I speak of is comparing wines of the same grape from the two states, to say one is better than the other. Pinot Noir is going to be stylistically completely different from each state and even more specific from each AVA within a particular state. There are a few factors that I find particularly important when speaking of these stylistic differences.

Climate. California is warmer than Oregon, Oregon is cooler than California. I am not saying one climate it better than the other, just simply stating that as with any agricultural crop, cooler versus warmer climate will permit that crop to grow distinctively.

Law. United States wine labeling laws require 75% of labeled grape to be in bottle. California follows said rule. Oregon has increased this requirement for Pinot Noir (as well as a few other grapes) with at least 90% of said grape to be in bottle. This is in no way an accusation that individual winemakers in California that blend in other grapes (for various reasons) are “doing something wrong” or that all California Pinot Noir is only 75% of that grape. It’s just the law, and can affect the style if additional varieties are blended into the wine.

Terrior. A sense of place that includes a number of factors: soil, altitude, exposure to sun etc. that has an impact on the grape. Having traveled to both California and Oregon wine country, I will tell you that my shoes look very different when I get home from each trip and that is because the soil is extremely different in each respective wine growing region. The land and air from California to Oregon are two unique and diverse worlds.

I’m thrilled that Pinot Noir is receiving this much attention from writers, bloggers, sommeliers, wine directors, servers, sales reps and most importantly the individuals buying and drinking the wine. But to say one state produces better Pinot Noir than the other is in a word: ridiculous. Compare Pinot Noir from different AVAs within each state and assess the fundamental differences between wines from the same sense of place. Otherwise you’re just comparing apples to oranges, and we know how useful that comparison works out. Drink what you like, and keep the comparisons within the same context and state. Cheers!

Balancing Act

Two recent readings here and here, got me thinking about recommendations. As part of my job (a part I love) I get to chat with guests about what wine(s) they might enjoy throughout their dinner. Many variables come into play when working with a guest on selecting wines, but ultimately the most important aspect is that you do work with the guest. And, while we might think we are in fact doing just that, we must remember the following: be open minded, the guest likes what they like, your recommendation may have nothing to do with what you like and in the end it’s only a recommendation.

Recommending wine is a balancing act and a huge part of that balance comes in the delivery. Among many characteristics of a Sommelier, one is to be humble. To be humble one must ask questions, listen to the guest, be genuine, be hospitable and not talk down to the guest (that’s so 1998!). The balancing act can be tough when presenting thoughts on a subject you are passionate about (at least I hope you’re passionate about wine, and food, if you’re selling it!). Walking the tight rope of recommendations means you must first have a diverse selection to in fact recommend from. The wines selected for the list should have significance: compliment the menu, diverse selections of the same grape, wines the guest will be familiar with, wines to deliver a unique experience and wines that taste good to numerous guests. While it can be tough, the balancing act can also be absolutely exhilarating; to listen to a guest and lead them into the possibilities of distinct exploration is a win-win for everyone involved.

Whether our recommendations are taken or not, at the end of the day as hospitality professionals it’s our job to make sure that the guest has a pleasurable experience at the table with food, wine, and friends, no matter which wine that happens to be. Cheers!

Time to Rekindle

While most of the world is groaning that January is upon us, I say bring on the frigid temps and all of its glory. I love the first month of the year for many reasons, one of which is it’s not December (see post below), which allows for much more time to do the things I love: spend time with friends and family (that I have absolutely no time to see in December, again see post below), catch up on my writing and reading, and rekindle my passion for all things food, wine, and travel.

The rekindling always finds a foundation in the books (as well as magazines and blogs) covering the subjects that surround my life. When spending one’s time studying wine text books day in and day out, it becomes quite refreshing to read about the people of wine and the story they have to tell. Looking for inspiration, a good story, a business model of what to or not to do, and much more here are a few books I am currently reading or have read.

The Grail – Brian Doyle

Judgment of Paris – George M. Taber

The Billionaire’s Vinegar – Benjamin Wallace

Romancing the Vine – Alan Tardi

At Home in the Vineyard – Susan Sokol Blosser

Red, White and Drunk All Over – Natalie MacLean

Wine and War – Don & Petie Kladstrup

Been Doon So Long – Randall Grahm

I recommend pairing your most enjoyed glass of wine with any of the above. Cheers!

December

Whether you work in one or not, this is the month that a good amount of individuals spend a great deal of time in restaurants. Holiday celebrations, both personal and professional, bring people from all different walks of life together to do two things, eat and drink a lot! While we’re imbibing and filling ourselves with the glorious treats of the holidays, one thing can go unnoticed: the hard work that it takes to get through the holidays. Don’t get me wrong … if you work in a hospitality or retail business you know that we live for December, it pays the bills for the slow months. And while we live for it, the work can be grueling and sometimes thankless.

So, I want to take a moment and this forum to say thank you. Thank you to the people who work with me (whether they read this or not), for putting in hard work and time to get through these last few crazy weeks. Before I go further into my thank you, I want to explain “the people who work with me”. I am talking about those that work for me, but I learned from an amazing woman in the radio sales biz (Liz Ryckman, that’s you!) that the people who work for you, really don’t … they work with you, and it’s your job as a leader to remember this and embrace it in your work environment, because it’s the best type of environment to support your staff and drive sales, each and every day. So, without naming names on to the thanks …

Thanks to: those that I work with who did their homework before December so they weren’t order takers when it came to wine sales. To those that came in to work with a good attitude, despite back to back doubles. To those who said, I’ll work the holidays because whether we like it or not, it’s part of the business. To those who have to put the fifty case order away on Thursday and come back to put away the hundred case order on Friday. To those that understand that private party business is just as important as dining room business and working the parties. To those that keep pushing through December whether it was a great or really not so great day. So, thank you for working with me and getting through this busy month.

And, to those of you who don’t work in the restaurant or retail business, please remember this is a hard time of year to work in these jobs. If you have a local shop that you frequent drop a plate of cookies off to the staff, they’ll be blown away. And while you can’t bring your bartenders and servers a plate of cookies, your generous tip while being courteous and polite will make someone’s holiday. Cheers!

Motivation

Motivation, look it up and Wikipedia states: “Motivation is the activation or energization of goal-oriented behavior.” Being in the hospitality business, I am constantly thinking about motivation, whether I am working, training staff, eating in a restaurant, making dinner, reading, writing … it is always on my mind. The definition of motivation makes one realize that to be motivated one must actually have goals. To achieve those goals, one must be motivated to put in the time (paying your dues as we call it in the restaurant business), make sacrifices, and take the journey to learn the lessons in life and business to achieve goals and set new ones. It’s being motivated about the “little” things that will get you to the “big” things! Unfortunately, more often than not, many individuals in the hospitality business miss the little things that will help them achieve the bigger goals. So, you have the fluff and philosophical parts of motivation but let’s be honest motivation is about one thing … choice!!!

We have a choice to set goals, to motivate ourselves to achieve those goals and to constantly keep moving forward. But many times I see disconnect, between the goals people want (or think they want) and the motivation to achieve those goals. Disconnect can be seen across the board in owners, chefs, managers, sales reps, bartenders, servers … the list can go on and on. So, my question then becomes this: if you aren’t achieving the results and goals you want, is your motivation and choice being used in the most effective way? There are a zillion examples of this disconnect, I’ll just take a few experiences of my own to demonstrate and hopefully bring the point home.

Charcuterie and cheese, when done well is exciting but when it’s not it’s NOT! If you are an owner/chef/partner etc I understand not listing the meats and cheese included on this dish as what is available will often change. But … if you’re not going to list it on the menu, then why not teach your staff about each product and train them to be competent enough to describe each item at the table. If I order charcuterie or cheese, it probably means I’m into this type of stuff (and probably can figure out what most items are) and want to know what is what. If you work front of house at an establishment that doesn’t give you this information and you don’t seek out the information to share with your guests … don’t question why you may not be making as much money as your friends who do work at an establishment that prides themselves on having such knowledge. And, the motivation, choice and training is cyclical … back to the owners/chefs/partners/managers if you’re not training your staff and getting them excited about the products (hopefully you’re using really cool products!) then it’s probably hurting your check average, which in turn is hurting your bottom line. Of course this can be attributed to any menu item, but I use the example of charcuterie and cheese, because so many times it just gets plopped down on the table and whoever brought just saunters away (or runs if they’re scared you might actually ask about the dish).

I recently dined at Lola in Cleveland, Ohio and had a wonderful experience. As per usual my husband and I ordered a slew of appetizers (six to be exact) and then had lamb (lamb three different ways which was fantastic!)for dinner. The wine list was laid out well with many choices both the usual suspects and a few hidden treasures, the prices ranging from reasonable to your high end sometimes overpriced wines (Lola’s wine list is not overpriced … some of the wines on the list are overpriced by the wineries and distributors due to “demand”). Since we had a variety of dishes hitting the table I chose Owen Roe, Sharecropper’s Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley of Oregon. It went well with the many rich dishes we chose and it was priced in the mid $50’s. Here is where the motivation and choice comes … our server wanted to share the stories of this wine and talk about how much he himself enjoyed it. Did I know the stories, yes … but what I loved was his enthusiasm for our wine choice, despite the fact that it didn’t cost $100 or more. Does he work for tips? Yes. But was he being an order taker (an opinionated order taker at that)? No. He had genuine motivation, of being knowledgeable, of knowing the stories behind the products, of sharing his favorites and why. He made a choice … a choice to be motivated to learn the stories and information behind the products to share with his guests in a hospitable way. Did someone make him learn the information? Most likely yes, but to convey it in a hospitable way … that’s choice and motivation and this guy had it. It’s one thing to be trained on products: food, wine, spirits and beer it’s another to genuinely choose to have a passion about these products, to be motivated to learn even more and share that with your guests each day based upon their desired experience.

Trends … they can be good when they first start, but unfortunately by the time the trends get to the masses they many times have become horrific glimpses of their origin. Origin is another word worth looking up, especially when it comes to making cocktails. There are certain places in the world where you should and shouldn’t order certain items, the phrase “when in Rome …” pops into my mind. And I made a stupid decision not too long ago to order a Caipirinha in a place that I shouldn’t have. But here’s my thing … why is it on your menu? Is it because you have a mojito and most places that have good mojitos also have a Caipirinha on the menu? Or is it because an owner or manager had one and it was really good, probably at a Brazilian or other Latin restaurant and thought, “hey we can do that’? There is disconnect, just because you had a good drink at a restaurant does not mean you should put that same drink on your menu. Unless, and only if you’re going to truly do the leg work and make a proper cocktail! I won’t hold it against you if you want to keep things fresh and put drinks on the menu that are innovative but for the love of a good drink, make it right and make sure it tastes good. If it doesn’t taste good, then don’t serve it or put it on your menu! To be clear a Caipirinha has muddled limes, preferably a whole lime quartered per drink, it does not get Rose’s lime juice (please don’t judge me … the menu didn’t say ANYTHING about Rose’s lime)! Make a choice and be motivated to select the items on your menu that “fit” with your concept. If you want to incorporate different aspects of the seasons or ethnic influences into your menu, be motivated enough to do the leg work behind the dishes and drinks to make it properly, otherwise you’re wasting paper, time and money. And that doesn’t benefit your bottom line or the experience of the guest.

At the end of the day it’s all about choice. Make the choice to be motivated, you might be surprised at the results.

Air of Autumn

What’s not to love about the fall season? The trees are filled with red and gold, our plates filled with squash, apples and hearty braised dishes and we can once again fill our glass with the wines we shelved during the sweltering months. This is by far my favorite time of year, it’s also an extremely busy time as it means menu and wine list changes. When a chill comes into the air our beverage choices change, thus why we see some of our favorite wine lists add some big, beautiful, and bold wines. Let’s look into a few of the bold and beautiful for this time of year.

Recently I enjoyed a great tasting and discussion about a closet grape. What is a closet grape? A grape that both wine professionals and non enjoy but it isn’t as “cool” to let others know that you do in fact drink. That grape is Zinfandel! Of course don’t tell some of my fabulous wine friends in California that Zinfandel is a closet grape, as they have nothing but love for the grape. The history and DNA of Zinfandel finds roots in Italy with Primitivo and Plavac Mali in Croatia … but it is California that allowed Zinfandel to flourish and become what it is today, enjoyable. In my business, Zin can get the cold shoulder because of its high alcohol and tannins that honestly can destroy food and any type of pairing you had in mind. And those wines do exist, but there are also extremely balanced wines from many producers of Zinfandel that do not overpower food and kill the palate after one glass. Paul Draper of Ridge (who has Chicago roots) is a definitive name when it comes to discussing balanced Zinfandel. Vineyards from Dry Creek and Alexander Valley to Paso Robles, Ridge has a Zin for every palate. The ability to allow the acidity to flourish in these wines makes them a perfect pairing to braised meats and root vegetable purees of the season.

Speaking of acidity … there is another part of the world that produces the bold and the beautiful while still maintaining the ability to be seamless at the table. Argentina! My love for Argentinean wine is no secret and again it is due to the acidity. With some of the highest grape growing elevations, Argentina has the ability to deliver intense wines with excellent acidity. Of course Malbec is the darling grape which can be fabulous this time of year but there are many other International grapes that thrive here. One of which is Cabernet Sauvignon, of course Cab isn’t always the first grape that pops into mind when pairing foods of this season. Again, due to the acidity, Cabernet Sauvignon from Argentina can be a balanced addition to the table in autumn. A particular Cabernet Sauvignon that I find enjoyable with game birds, pork and lamb is from Susana Balbo. The Susana Balbo signature wines are fantastic and the Cabernet Sauvignon shows rich red fruits, plum and tobacco that bring out an excellent spice to pair nicely with the autumn spices we find in so many dishes.

The fall wine production is not an all red show, there are plenty of white wines that also make a nice companion at the seasonal table. Of course the white wines we drink as the cool air fills the days and nights tends to be a bit bigger in body and full of flavor. While we want body and flavor that does not mean all we want is oak, here are a few selections I find enjoyable.

Paul Blanck is a name well known from the always exciting Alsace region of France. The Pinot Gris is one of my favorites from the collection, an off-dry wine that exudes nuts and spice that scream autumn. This wine is a brilliant start to any meal that can last through dessert and cheese. A new world wine that is equally as pleasurable is from Charles Smith. Smith is known for his rockstar background, big hair and kick ass wines from the Walla Walla Valley in Washington. Check out the K Syrah wines and for a knock out white, Kung Fu Girl Riesling. With perfect aromas of stone fruits and a minerality that lingers this is a white wine that was born to drink before, during and after your Thanksgiving dinner (preferably while watching football!).

It’s time to embrace the cool, crisp weather and drink the wines that were meant for this extraordinary season. Cheers!

Eggs for Every Meal

Each day I have the opportunity to speak with many guests and share my passion for food, wine, spirits and beer. A passion that I share with many guests is that there are two things that make everything better, pork and eggs. Now, I’m not just talking about the dishes that pork and eggs are in, these two fantastically rich and fatty items also make the many beverages we enjoy even more enjoyable. Today we’re focusing on the glory of eggs!

Americans can be weird about eggs. Now I’m not talking about the foodie, chef or adventurous media type, we know you (and I) all get excited about eggs on any dish. But for the most part, Americans feel that eggs are for breakfast and that’s it!?! What? Only eat eggs at breakfast? Ridiculous. If you look to cultures around the world, eggs are used in dishes through breakfast, lunch and dinner. One reason eggs are seen throughout the world’s dishes is because they are a good source of protein, at a fraction of the cost of meat. Today, in some of the most celebrated restaurants, including an egg to a dish adds a rich texture that lends a luxurious factor to already celebrated items such as mushrooms, pata negra, steak, seasonal salads and the list goes on.

In addition to being a fantastic part of any dish, eggs are an excellent pairing with the many beverages we enjoy, both wine and beer. Take the mimosa and brunch idea one step further, eggs and sparkling wine are brilliant together. The bubbles and acidity in sparkling wine cut the rich qualities in the eggs. Same concept with beer, I especially enjoy Goose Island Sofie with savory egg dishes. Both pairings are taken to the next level if the eggs are fried and served over pata negra! Eggs and mushrooms, grab a glass of pinot noir and watch the wine play very differently off the egg versus the mushrooms, especially if bacon is included.

So, what brought about this ‘Hey Americans need to get over their weird egg thing’? We recently were very honored to be a part of the Green City Market event at the Kurtis home, where our dish was a fried egg over pisto manchego (a Spanish dish made of tomatoes, onions, garlic, eggplant and olive oil; similar to ratatouille). You could tell guests were timid about the egg, maybe even scared but like one kid jumping off the bridge, once one guest enjoyed the dish many more followed. The dish used seasonal tomatoes, eggplant, olive oil, and the eggs of choice from Swan Creek Farms. It was wonderful to see guests enjoying the egg dish for a second and third time throughout the event with some of the local beer and wine being served.

Hopefully more Americans (and Chicagoans) will be “adventurous” and enjoy the luscious addition of an egg to the already fantastic dishes we enjoy with our favorite beer and wine. Cheers!