Monday, March 30, 2009

The Chicago Ramp Connection

Even though we have a little snow on the ground, most foodies in Chicago know that ramps have arrived, which means that spring is truly around the corner. What makes this leek a true sign of all good things to come, is that it is truly wild and not grown in a manufactured manner. Thus, once ramps arrive we know many fabulous fruits and vegetables are on the way. Chicago has quite a connection to ramps, which may be the reason we see it in so many seasonal kitchens throughout the city.

The name ‘Chicago’ is said to originate in the Potawatomi language, from Checaguar meaning wild onions or skunk. It is said that the name came from the area smelling of rotting marshland of wild leeks or ramps that used to cover it. Ramps are from the onion family with bright green leaves and scallion like bulbs, all of which are edible. The taste, a cross between extremely strong garlic and onion, is a glorious one. Any cuisine can see the benefits of ramps, as it takes so many dishes to the next level. From sauces to pickling, soups to stews, or just plain roasted with olive oil ramps are a unique treasure that gets the wine mind in the mode of what to pair with these perfect spring treats.

The fiancé says beer is the pairing of choice with ramps, and I’m not arguing especially some new brews we recently tasted with Greg Hall from Goose Island. Ramps would be excellent with Sofie, a tart, dry, sparkling ale that the talented brewmaster compared to Champagne. And like the Sofie, Champagne too would be an excellent choice for many dishes that incorporate ramps. A brut of sparkling wine, not just wine from the splendid land of France, would pair nicely as the dryness will cut the strong flavors of ramps. That strong bold flavor can come more from the bulb, so pairing dishes with the delicate green leaves might be a bit different.

With the truly green taste the leaves of the ramps can give, one must pair a food friendly wine. Thinking food friendly and green, leads right to Grüner Veltliner. A white wine grape that grows primarily in Austria, as well as in the Czech Republic, but almost nowhere else in the world. This wine will beam glints of green, its minerality and sometimes slight spice make it an excellent pairing for ramps. Should you stock up on a few bottles, this is a remarkable pairing for the sometimes hard to pair asparagus. As we know, if ramps are here, asparagus is on its way! So, start enjoying spring now by picking ramps, buying ramps from local farmers, or supporting your restaurants that do. And have a glass of wine (or beer) while you’re at it. Cheers!

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Rosé Drinking Season

I always chuckle to myself when the weather starts to warm up and I hear people announce that it is rosé drinking season. The chuckle comes from the fact that I am such a fan of rosé and find it so versatile when pairing with various dishes that it’s a year round wine to enjoy throughout all seasons. That being said, since we’re moving into “rosé drinking season” I was inspired to write about this wonderful and many times misunderstood wine.
The fiancé and I have worked many events on and off premise where rosé was included in one of the pairings. More times than not, guests give the “oh I don’t drink pink wine” look and that is so unfortunate as they are missing out on a true gem. Many times the color of rosé leads guests to think the wine is going to be of low quality and sweet to sickly sweet. I want to say to the world, don’t let the color scare you! Rosé can have a beautiful crisp, dryness to it that will make the start to or the duration of any meal excellent. None the less, I believe that there are not as many converts to rosé as there should be, due to a lack of understanding. So, a brief definition of rosé and then I’ll share a few that I find irresistible.
Rosé (excluding rosé Champagne) is typically made from red grapes. In a normal process of making red wine, the juice is left in contact with the skins during fermentation, for rosé the juice is drained off from the skins after a few days and then allowed to go through fermentation separate from the skin. This brief contact with the skins is what gives rosé its beautiful color. Understanding how rosé is made makes it a bit easier to understand why this isn’t a sickly sweet wine, but one that can be quite dry. Rosé can be made from many red grapes, in the Old World you will see rosés made from Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Nebbiolo and many others. In the New World, you will see many grapes as well, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Pinot Noir just to name a few. If you find yourself or someone you are trying to convert to become a rosé fan, start with New World wines so that you know the grape variety you are choosing and you’re not dealing with wine labels you may not understand. But once you find yourself a lover of rosé, start getting into those French, Spanish and Italian rosés, because they are glorious! Now for a few wines I enjoy year round.


Crios de Susana Balbo, Rosé of Malbec, Mendoza Argentina
A wine that exhibits strawberries and cherries, hints of spice with a clean dry finish. Prefect pairing with grilled meats, seafood salads and cheese.

Miguel Torres has projects in the New World, in addition to the wonderful wines in Spain. A Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé from Chile delivers a wine that isn’t as dry, with a minimal sweetness. Cranberry and redcurrants bound out of the glass, and are complimented by voluptuous and silky texture. Enjoy this wine with pasta dishes and Asian classics.



Sokol Blosser is one of the handfuls of families in Oregon that made this American wine country what it is today. Sokol Blosser is known for fabulous Pinot Noir, and also have two very fun projects Evolution and Meditrina, I recommend each one. This Rosé of Pinot Noir is perfect for a hot day, as it is light, refreshing and quite vibrant. Delicate floral aromas, acidity, minerality and fresh fruit make this a perfect addition to any meal enjoyed outdoors.

So, start enjoying the weather and pick up a bottle of rosé today. Cheers!