What’s not to love about the fall season? The trees are filled with red and gold, our plates filled with squash, apples and hearty braised dishes and we can once again fill our glass with the wines we shelved during the sweltering months. This is by far my favorite time of year, it’s also an extremely busy time as it means menu and wine list changes. When a chill comes into the air our beverage choices change, thus why we see some of our favorite wine lists add some big, beautiful, and bold wines. Let’s look into a few of the bold and beautiful for this time of year.
Recently I enjoyed a great tasting and discussion about a closet grape. What is a closet grape? A grape that both wine professionals and non enjoy but it isn’t as “cool” to let others know that you do in fact drink. That grape is Zinfandel! Of course don’t tell some of my fabulous wine friends in California that Zinfandel is a closet grape, as they have nothing but love for the grape. The history and DNA of Zinfandel finds roots in Italy with Primitivo and Plavac Mali in Croatia … but it is California that allowed Zinfandel to flourish and become what it is today, enjoyable. In my business, Zin can get the cold shoulder because of its high alcohol and tannins that honestly can destroy food and any type of pairing you had in mind. And those wines do exist, but there are also extremely balanced wines from many producers of Zinfandel that do not overpower food and kill the palate after one glass. Paul Draper of Ridge (who has Chicago roots) is a definitive name when it comes to discussing balanced Zinfandel. Vineyards from Dry Creek and Alexander Valley to Paso Robles, Ridge has a Zin for every palate. The ability to allow the acidity to flourish in these wines makes them a perfect pairing to braised meats and root vegetable purees of the season.
Speaking of acidity … there is another part of the world that produces the bold and the beautiful while still maintaining the ability to be seamless at the table. Argentina! My love for Argentinean wine is no secret and again it is due to the acidity. With some of the highest grape growing elevations, Argentina has the ability to deliver intense wines with excellent acidity. Of course Malbec is the darling grape which can be fabulous this time of year but there are many other International grapes that thrive here. One of which is Cabernet Sauvignon, of course Cab isn’t always the first grape that pops into mind when pairing foods of this season. Again, due to the acidity, Cabernet Sauvignon from Argentina can be a balanced addition to the table in autumn. A particular Cabernet Sauvignon that I find enjoyable with game birds, pork and lamb is from Susana Balbo. The Susana Balbo signature wines are fantastic and the Cabernet Sauvignon shows rich red fruits, plum and tobacco that bring out an excellent spice to pair nicely with the autumn spices we find in so many dishes.
The fall wine production is not an all red show, there are plenty of white wines that also make a nice companion at the seasonal table. Of course the white wines we drink as the cool air fills the days and nights tends to be a bit bigger in body and full of flavor. While we want body and flavor that does not mean all we want is oak, here are a few selections I find enjoyable.
Paul Blanck is a name well known from the always exciting Alsace region of France. The Pinot Gris is one of my favorites from the collection, an off-dry wine that exudes nuts and spice that scream autumn. This wine is a brilliant start to any meal that can last through dessert and cheese. A new world wine that is equally as pleasurable is from Charles Smith. Smith is known for his rockstar background, big hair and kick ass wines from the Walla Walla Valley in Washington. Check out the K Syrah wines and for a knock out white, Kung Fu Girl Riesling. With perfect aromas of stone fruits and a minerality that lingers this is a white wine that was born to drink before, during and after your Thanksgiving dinner (preferably while watching football!).
It’s time to embrace the cool, crisp weather and drink the wines that were meant for this extraordinary season. Cheers!
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