Day in and day out, we as a human race consume items from both near and far. A few weeks back the Green City Market presented its’ annual Localvore Challenge, which for anyone who took the challenge and found themselves successful, CONGRATS! Our food loving counterparts on the west coast have been encouraging the initiative to support local products for years, and Chicago has been playing catch up very well. Chefs throughout this city support local farmers, and when possible fill their menus with pork, chicken, fruit, vegetables, cheese and more from within Illinois and neighboring states. In a life filled then with so many local treasures, why did it take a blog from Washington D.C. and a beer dinner for this wine chic to realize that local isn’t just about eating?
Recently Greg Hall and Goose Island Beers were honored with a dinner consisting of local ingredients, prepared by Chef Mark Mendez at Carnivale. Featured Goose Island Beers were: Harvest Ale, 312 Urban Wheat, Indian Pale Ale, Honkers Ale, Matilda and Pere Jacques. The local menu consisted of ham croquettes, huitlacoche and Capriole Farm’s chevre goat cheese empanadas, chicken curry and sofrito braised pork both highlighting Gunthorp Farms, and finally a Capriole Farm’s goat cheese finale of: Piper’s Pyramid, Sophia, Julianna, and Old Kentucky Tomme with Seedling’s Farms pears and local honey. After hearing the featured cheeses in the dinner, from Capriole Farm in Greenville, IN, were some of Greg Hall’s favorites it got the juices flowing about drinking locally. All chefs and sommeliers have used the phrase ‘What Grows Together Goes Together’. Albariño from Galicia and shellfish, Oregon Pinot Noir and Salmon, the cuisine of Dijon and Burgundian wine, so why not Capriole Farm’s Old Kentucky Tomme and Goose Island’s Pere Jacques? We in the Midwest have cherished our locally grown food for years and it’s time we start pairing those items with libations from the same states.
Upon relishing the local beer, and a recent trip discovering Michigan wine, the hunt began for wine produced in Illinois. The hunt didn’t take long, as a favorite blog is http://www.chiefwino.com/, writings of a sommelier in Washington D.C. Andrew Stover (who is also a fellow OPC attendee) has roots in the Midwest and has highlighted wine jewels found right here in Illinois. Research on drinking local products has encouraged another road trip, this time within our own state. Anticipation is filling all thoughts of a trip to Lynfred Winery in our city’s backyard.
This wine chic loves pairing beer and wine from around the world with the glorious local foods we find surrounding us in every season. For our next pairing, whether it’s beer, wine, or cider, let’s all take a moment and pair our food with a beverage from the neighbors.
Monday, September 29, 2008
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Food and Wine of the Beautiful Fall Season
As the 22nd of September has arrived, the grumblings have begun of summer being over. Tears shed over shorter daylight hours, less beach time, and thoughts of the whipping winds of winter. But dry those tears, because with the arrival of fall comes the fabulous food and wine of the season.
As the leaves begin to change, the food of autumn fills the air. Apples, pears, pomegranates, quince and FIGS! The crunch of the crisp apples and pears mirror the slightly cool autumn air, while those same fruits in a baked pie warm the soul on chilly nights. Pomegranates, while not only being used in salad, sweet and savory dishes, and cocktails, it’s one of the healthiest items the human being can consume. This season also gives us the treasure of quince, this yellow-skinned fruit looks and tastes like a cross between an apple and a pear. One of the pure joys of quince season is quince paste, enjoyed best with aged Manchego cheese and marcona almonds! And then of course there are the glorious figs. There are hundreds of varieties, all having in common a soft flesh with a plentitude of seeds. With the hundreds of varieties comes the many preparations, again just like the pomegranate showing up in salads, as well as sweet and savory dishes. The mouth waters at the thought of so many wonderful jewels, and that’s just the fruit.
The vegetables of autumn scream for soups, stews and of course pork of all kinds! Mushrooms, parsnips, squash, and bitter greens conjure memories of bright sunny days, crisp air and Sunday dinners filled with love (and football of course)! The various types of mushrooms are a subject into themselves, and saying any mushroom is just a mushroom is saying that Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir are the same, because they are both red wine. This time of year brings us Black Trumpet mushrooms, with their smoky flavor and delicate texture. Hen-of-the-Woods or Maitake as some may know this mushroom, has been called one of the best edible wild mushrooms. To that claim, there will be arguments, but you cannot argue the versatility and wonderful flavor of these mushrooms. Squash technically a fruit of the gourd family, can take a food lover from early fall to winter and never disappoint. This gourd falls into two groups summer and winter and for this season, it’s all about winter squash which includes: butternut, spaghetti, acorn, Hubbard and pumpkin. Weather it’s a hearty soup or pumpkin pie, squash is a true gem of fall. Parsnips are not always the darling vegetable of fall, for whatever reason parsnips really do get a bad name. The first frost of the year converts parsnip’s starch to sugar, and gives this root a pleasantly sweet flavor. Chicago’s more seasonal restaurants let parsnips shine in all their glory, as well they should!
All this talk of the fruits and vegetables of fall can’t help but make any foodie want to pair a million different wines with any of the season’s dishes. There are a few obvious choices, and very good ones at that, for example, mushrooms and pinot noir sound like pure ecstasy. In addition, this season (and every season) always brings thoughts of the white Burgundy of the Côte d’Or. In addition to the go to wines of the season, recent tastings have lead to the discovery of a few new fall wines to cherish. Among those recently tasted are:
Septima, Chardonnay/Semillon from Mendoza, Argentina. The composition is 60% Chardonnay and 40% Semillon, giving the wine a pale yellow color. On the nose are aromas of crisp apple and fresh pineapple. On the palate, those fruit flavors are maintained, but what takes over is the balanced, silky volume of the wine and the burst of acidity and tropical fruit on the finish.
A fabulous red find, comes from the Puglia region of Italy. Another blend that pairs well with the fruits and vegetables of fall, is the Tormaresca Neprica, a blend of 40% Negroamaro, 30% Primitivo and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Plums, cola and licorice fill the nose, on the palate are ripe red and black fruits, wonderful structure, yet not too tannic, as some Italian wines can be criticized for. Tormaresca is a wonderful red to warm the body for a festive fall dinner.
The beginning of autumn is no time to cry over the changing of the seasons, so grab a tissue, wipe those tears and start eating and drinking the fruits (and vegetables) of fall.
As the leaves begin to change, the food of autumn fills the air. Apples, pears, pomegranates, quince and FIGS! The crunch of the crisp apples and pears mirror the slightly cool autumn air, while those same fruits in a baked pie warm the soul on chilly nights. Pomegranates, while not only being used in salad, sweet and savory dishes, and cocktails, it’s one of the healthiest items the human being can consume. This season also gives us the treasure of quince, this yellow-skinned fruit looks and tastes like a cross between an apple and a pear. One of the pure joys of quince season is quince paste, enjoyed best with aged Manchego cheese and marcona almonds! And then of course there are the glorious figs. There are hundreds of varieties, all having in common a soft flesh with a plentitude of seeds. With the hundreds of varieties comes the many preparations, again just like the pomegranate showing up in salads, as well as sweet and savory dishes. The mouth waters at the thought of so many wonderful jewels, and that’s just the fruit.
The vegetables of autumn scream for soups, stews and of course pork of all kinds! Mushrooms, parsnips, squash, and bitter greens conjure memories of bright sunny days, crisp air and Sunday dinners filled with love (and football of course)! The various types of mushrooms are a subject into themselves, and saying any mushroom is just a mushroom is saying that Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir are the same, because they are both red wine. This time of year brings us Black Trumpet mushrooms, with their smoky flavor and delicate texture. Hen-of-the-Woods or Maitake as some may know this mushroom, has been called one of the best edible wild mushrooms. To that claim, there will be arguments, but you cannot argue the versatility and wonderful flavor of these mushrooms. Squash technically a fruit of the gourd family, can take a food lover from early fall to winter and never disappoint. This gourd falls into two groups summer and winter and for this season, it’s all about winter squash which includes: butternut, spaghetti, acorn, Hubbard and pumpkin. Weather it’s a hearty soup or pumpkin pie, squash is a true gem of fall. Parsnips are not always the darling vegetable of fall, for whatever reason parsnips really do get a bad name. The first frost of the year converts parsnip’s starch to sugar, and gives this root a pleasantly sweet flavor. Chicago’s more seasonal restaurants let parsnips shine in all their glory, as well they should!
All this talk of the fruits and vegetables of fall can’t help but make any foodie want to pair a million different wines with any of the season’s dishes. There are a few obvious choices, and very good ones at that, for example, mushrooms and pinot noir sound like pure ecstasy. In addition, this season (and every season) always brings thoughts of the white Burgundy of the Côte d’Or. In addition to the go to wines of the season, recent tastings have lead to the discovery of a few new fall wines to cherish. Among those recently tasted are:
Septima, Chardonnay/Semillon from Mendoza, Argentina. The composition is 60% Chardonnay and 40% Semillon, giving the wine a pale yellow color. On the nose are aromas of crisp apple and fresh pineapple. On the palate, those fruit flavors are maintained, but what takes over is the balanced, silky volume of the wine and the burst of acidity and tropical fruit on the finish.
A fabulous red find, comes from the Puglia region of Italy. Another blend that pairs well with the fruits and vegetables of fall, is the Tormaresca Neprica, a blend of 40% Negroamaro, 30% Primitivo and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Plums, cola and licorice fill the nose, on the palate are ripe red and black fruits, wonderful structure, yet not too tannic, as some Italian wines can be criticized for. Tormaresca is a wonderful red to warm the body for a festive fall dinner.
The beginning of autumn is no time to cry over the changing of the seasons, so grab a tissue, wipe those tears and start eating and drinking the fruits (and vegetables) of fall.
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
On The Road to Michigan
Road trips and wine at the onset seem to have little to do with one another. But after discovering a few wine (and food) treasures throughout Michigan on recent excursions, it seems that road trips and wine have much more in common, than first suspected.
Road trips and wine both take planning, execution, finding shelter, obtaining nourishment and dealing with the ups and downs, both good and bad.
Having a rare four days off with the fiancé (who is also a chef), allowed for a trip to southwestern Michigan. The familiar trip up 94 has always been filled with winery billboards, but it had always been written off as sweet fruit wine, until now. With the fiancé and I both being in the restaurant business, we’re always skeptical about having delightful culinary adventures on road trips, again until now.
After driving to our lovely bed and breakfast, Castle in the Country, based on proximity, we decided to visit Fenn Valley Winery, St. Julien Winery and Waren Winery. To my surprise, we came home with about a case of sparkling and red wine, as well as a bottle of port. Of the three Fenn Valley, really captured the “wine country” charm, as the tasting room, is located on the vineyard. Fenny Valley was the first to change the view of wine from Michigan. Of the wines that stood out, the true winner was the Blanc de Noir, and what a wonderful surprise to find a fabulous sparkling wine that was not cider. After spending a few days in this area of Michigan, it appeared that wines from St. Julien were quite popular. Upon visiting St. Julien’s tasting room, Michigan wine began to shine, but not as the syrup sweet “darling” many individuals know, and actually like, but as medium alcohol, slightly acidic, food wines. St. Julien’s winner was another sparkling, Braganini, Blanc de Blanc. Last on the Michigan wine tour was Waren Winery, while not on the actual vineyard, the grounds of this winery were charming none the less.
Wine was not the only fortune found in southwest Michigan, due to a wonderful article found on Hungrymag.com, by Michael Nagrant. Recently Nagrant wrote about the Journeyman Café in Finnville, MI and dinner there turned out to be everything written about and more. Journeyman’s concept, “use ingredients which are local, organic or chemical free, and sustainably managed whenever possible.” The “Live off the land” concept was in a delightful setting with just the right service, not intrusive but always there when needed. Dinner began with an heirloom tomato salad, foie gras (which didn’t even last time enough to take a picture before two bites were swooped up), and a plethora of salumi. Appetizers were accompanied by a glass of M. Lawrence, Sparkling Rosé, NV, another stunner from Leelanau Peninsula, MI and Berres Urziger Spatlese, Riesling 1998. Dinner consisted of pork tenderloin and belly, as well as a lamb entrée, both were very good. This true “Farm to Table” dinner, was a match made in heaven with the Adelsheim, Pinot Noir. This wine was not only a fabulous pairing with the pork and lamb, but a chance to fondly remember my recent travels to Oregon Pinot Camp at the Adelsheim Winery. Dessert was skipped in lieu of a glorious cheese plate, Sauternes and Calvados. It was a memorable meal, one of the most in quite some time.
Vacation is about relaxing, reflection, taking a step back, enjoying life and discovery. The Michigan food and wine journey, gave all of that and then some.
Road trips and wine both take planning, execution, finding shelter, obtaining nourishment and dealing with the ups and downs, both good and bad.
Having a rare four days off with the fiancé (who is also a chef), allowed for a trip to southwestern Michigan. The familiar trip up 94 has always been filled with winery billboards, but it had always been written off as sweet fruit wine, until now. With the fiancé and I both being in the restaurant business, we’re always skeptical about having delightful culinary adventures on road trips, again until now.
After driving to our lovely bed and breakfast, Castle in the Country, based on proximity, we decided to visit Fenn Valley Winery, St. Julien Winery and Waren Winery. To my surprise, we came home with about a case of sparkling and red wine, as well as a bottle of port. Of the three Fenn Valley, really captured the “wine country” charm, as the tasting room, is located on the vineyard. Fenny Valley was the first to change the view of wine from Michigan. Of the wines that stood out, the true winner was the Blanc de Noir, and what a wonderful surprise to find a fabulous sparkling wine that was not cider. After spending a few days in this area of Michigan, it appeared that wines from St. Julien were quite popular. Upon visiting St. Julien’s tasting room, Michigan wine began to shine, but not as the syrup sweet “darling” many individuals know, and actually like, but as medium alcohol, slightly acidic, food wines. St. Julien’s winner was another sparkling, Braganini, Blanc de Blanc. Last on the Michigan wine tour was Waren Winery, while not on the actual vineyard, the grounds of this winery were charming none the less.
Wine was not the only fortune found in southwest Michigan, due to a wonderful article found on Hungrymag.com, by Michael Nagrant. Recently Nagrant wrote about the Journeyman Café in Finnville, MI and dinner there turned out to be everything written about and more. Journeyman’s concept, “use ingredients which are local, organic or chemical free, and sustainably managed whenever possible.” The “Live off the land” concept was in a delightful setting with just the right service, not intrusive but always there when needed. Dinner began with an heirloom tomato salad, foie gras (which didn’t even last time enough to take a picture before two bites were swooped up), and a plethora of salumi. Appetizers were accompanied by a glass of M. Lawrence, Sparkling Rosé, NV, another stunner from Leelanau Peninsula, MI and Berres Urziger Spatlese, Riesling 1998. Dinner consisted of pork tenderloin and belly, as well as a lamb entrée, both were very good. This true “Farm to Table” dinner, was a match made in heaven with the Adelsheim, Pinot Noir. This wine was not only a fabulous pairing with the pork and lamb, but a chance to fondly remember my recent travels to Oregon Pinot Camp at the Adelsheim Winery. Dessert was skipped in lieu of a glorious cheese plate, Sauternes and Calvados. It was a memorable meal, one of the most in quite some time.
Vacation is about relaxing, reflection, taking a step back, enjoying life and discovery. The Michigan food and wine journey, gave all of that and then some.
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