Food and Wine of the Beautiful Fall Season

As the 22nd of September has arrived, the grumblings have begun of summer being over. Tears shed over shorter daylight hours, less beach time, and thoughts of the whipping winds of winter. But dry those tears, because with the arrival of fall comes the fabulous food and wine of the season.

As the leaves begin to change, the food of autumn fills the air. Apples, pears, pomegranates, quince and FIGS! The crunch of the crisp apples and pears mirror the slightly cool autumn air, while those same fruits in a baked pie warm the soul on chilly nights. Pomegranates, while not only being used in salad, sweet and savory dishes, and cocktails, it’s one of the healthiest items the human being can consume. This season also gives us the treasure of quince, this yellow-skinned fruit looks and tastes like a cross between an apple and a pear. One of the pure joys of quince season is quince paste, enjoyed best with aged Manchego cheese and marcona almonds! And then of course there are the glorious figs. There are hundreds of varieties, all having in common a soft flesh with a plentitude of seeds. With the hundreds of varieties comes the many preparations, again just like the pomegranate showing up in salads, as well as sweet and savory dishes. The mouth waters at the thought of so many wonderful jewels, and that’s just the fruit.

The vegetables of autumn scream for soups, stews and of course pork of all kinds! Mushrooms, parsnips, squash, and bitter greens conjure memories of bright sunny days, crisp air and Sunday dinners filled with love (and football of course)! The various types of mushrooms are a subject into themselves, and saying any mushroom is just a mushroom is saying that Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir are the same, because they are both red wine. This time of year brings us Black Trumpet mushrooms, with their smoky flavor and delicate texture. Hen-of-the-Woods or Maitake as some may know this mushroom, has been called one of the best edible wild mushrooms. To that claim, there will be arguments, but you cannot argue the versatility and wonderful flavor of these mushrooms. Squash technically a fruit of the gourd family, can take a food lover from early fall to winter and never disappoint. This gourd falls into two groups summer and winter and for this season, it’s all about winter squash which includes: butternut, spaghetti, acorn, Hubbard and pumpkin. Weather it’s a hearty soup or pumpkin pie, squash is a true gem of fall. Parsnips are not always the darling vegetable of fall, for whatever reason parsnips really do get a bad name. The first frost of the year converts parsnip’s starch to sugar, and gives this root a pleasantly sweet flavor. Chicago’s more seasonal restaurants let parsnips shine in all their glory, as well they should!

All this talk of the fruits and vegetables of fall can’t help but make any foodie want to pair a million different wines with any of the season’s dishes. There are a few obvious choices, and very good ones at that, for example, mushrooms and pinot noir sound like pure ecstasy. In addition, this season (and every season) always brings thoughts of the white Burgundy of the Côte d’Or. In addition to the go to wines of the season, recent tastings have lead to the discovery of a few new fall wines to cherish. Among those recently tasted are:

Septima, Chardonnay/Semillon from Mendoza, Argentina. The composition is 60% Chardonnay and 40% Semillon, giving the wine a pale yellow color. On the nose are aromas of crisp apple and fresh pineapple. On the palate, those fruit flavors are maintained, but what takes over is the balanced, silky volume of the wine and the burst of acidity and tropical fruit on the finish.

A fabulous red find, comes from the Puglia region of Italy. Another blend that pairs well with the fruits and vegetables of fall, is the Tormaresca Neprica, a blend of 40% Negroamaro, 30% Primitivo and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Plums, cola and licorice fill the nose, on the palate are ripe red and black fruits, wonderful structure, yet not too tannic, as some Italian wines can be criticized for. Tormaresca is a wonderful red to warm the body for a festive fall dinner.

The beginning of autumn is no time to cry over the changing of the seasons, so grab a tissue, wipe those tears and start eating and drinking the fruits (and vegetables) of fall.